How To Give Your Dog A Bath
Many people feel that bathing their dog is too difficult to do, which is why they send them to a groomer. But why waste the money on groomers? What most people don’t know is that dogs are easier to bathe then cats are. Probably because cats hate the water, while most dogs find it fun. Here are a few tips so you can stop wasting your money.
A short-haired dog is fairly easy to bathe, especially if he’s small. You can bathe him right in the kitchen or bathroom sink, or in your bathtub, if your back can stand a lot of bending. A hose attachment or a hose type shower massage can be a big help when using the tub. A larger or long-haired dog can present more of a problem and sometimes requires two people to tackle the job. It’s best to bathe a large dog in the bathtub (be prepared for a bath yourself!) or in the yard when the weather permits.
Just about any gentle, tearless dog shampoo will do unless your dog has fleas or a skin condition. If your dog has either, use a shampoo made for the specific problem, or one recommended by your vet. When using a regular dog shampoo, it’s usually best to dilute it. (Don’t dilute flea shampoo or medicated shampoo because you’d also be diluting the active ingredients!) Most dog shampoos are way too thick which makes it difficult to work up a good lather. I usually dilute it with 25% to 50% water. You can pour some shampoo into an empty bottle and add small amounts of water until it reaches the right consistency.
Some people use ‘people’ shampoo, and I’ve even heard of some who use dish washing liquid. Both are much too harsh for your dog’s skin and can cause skin and coat problems in the future. In the long-run, it’s cheaper to buy a good dog shampoo and dilute it as described above. Before the dog even gets NEAR the water, brush him well. This can’t be stressed enough. All of the dead, shedding fur has to be removed from the coat and undercoat.
If the dog has knots, tangles, or mats, they must all be removed before you bathe him. Don’t expect a conditioner to remove the mats, because it won’t. In fact, if you bathe your dog without first brushing him thoroughly, the dirt and shampoo will remain in the mats, creating more of a problem by making the mats tighter. This can also cause skin problems or make matters worse if problems already exist.
Bathing alone won’t remove all the shedding hair from a short coat, either. Brushing is necessary before and after the bath. A really great grooming tool for use on short-haired dogs that shed is a Shed’n Blade, available at most pet stores. It’s simple to use and does a great job of removing all that loose fur. It is best to do it outdoors since the fur flies all over.
Ready? Wet the dog well from the neck to the tail, saving the head, face, and ears for later. Begin by shampooing the hind legs. Then do the tail and the rear end. (Pay a little extra attention to that area!) Next, shampoo the body, chest, and front legs. Now, carefully wet the head, face, and ears. Lather those areas, being careful not to get suds in the dog’s eyes, even if you’re using a ‘tearless’ shampoo. Now it’s time to rinse. And rinse, and rinse, and rinse.
First rinse the shampoo from the head, face, and ears, and then the body and legs. Don’t forget the underside of the dog. To reach that area, have him stand on his hind legs by lifting his front paws. Keep rinsing until you no longer feel shampoo anywhere on the dog and the water runs clear. Any residue of shampoo remaining on the dog can cause itching, flaking, and skin problems.
When finished, wrap the dog in a towel to absorb excess water and to prevent him from shaking it everywhere. Then systematically towel dry each part of the dog, face, head, ears, body, legs, and tail. A good towel drying can save lots of time. Finish up by drying him with a hair blower, which is usually easier if you have someone to hold him while you do this. Make sure the dryer is set at a comfortable temperature, and don’t hold it too close to the dog’s skin.